There are hundreds of padel rackets and every brand says theirs is the best. In practice, only a handful of things decide whether a racket suits you, and the number printed on the face isn't one of them. This is how I help the players I coach choose, after testing hundreds of rackets and selling more than 400 through this shop.
The short answer
- Less than six months playing: round or hybrid shape, soft core, nothing too heavy. Comfort first, because your contact point still changes from shot to shot.
- Playing regularly: hybrid shape, medium core, medium-high balance.
- Advanced: it depends on how you win your points. If you defend, stay on hybrid. If you attack and your technique is clean, a diamond starts to make sense.
1. Shape: the most important decision
Shape decides where the weight sits, and in consequence how big the sweet spot is and how much power you get on overheads.
Round. The weight sits close to the hand and the sweet spot is the biggest. The most forgiving option, for beginners and defenders.
Teardrop or hybrid. Extra power on overheads without losing control at the net. It's what I use 90% of the time, and where I'd start if you're not sure. Examples: HOOK Solid, Starvie Astrum and Starvie Black Titan.
Diamond. The weight goes towards the head, which gives maximum power on smashes but a smaller sweet spot. Only if you attack and hit cleanly. Examples: Starvie Triton and Lok Maxx Hype.
2. Core: what decides the feel
In most rackets, the EVA core has more influence on how the racket feels than the face material.
Soft. Comfortable and easy power, but less precise. Good for beginners and for sensitive arms.
Medium. Enough power and enough control for most all-round players. Examples: Starvie Astrum and Starvie Triton.
Hard (EVA40 and similar). Maximum control, but you generate the power yourself. Examples: Starvie Black Titan, and the HOOK Solid, whose closed throat keeps the sweet spot big despite the dense core.
If you play outdoors in the UK: cold makes the core firmer and the balls bounce less, so a hard racket feels even harder in winter. A soft or medium core copes better.
3. Fibreglass or carbon
Fibreglass flexes more and gives the ball back with more speed, even on mishits. Easier power and more comfort.
Carbon is stiffer. Less help from the racket, more precision on every contact.
Don't choose by the 3K, 12K or 18K label. The K only tells you how many filaments go into each bundle of the outer fabric, not how hard the racket is. I explain why here.
4. Balance and weight
A low balance makes the racket fast at the net. A high balance gives you more power but makes you slower to react. Most of the players I coach end up happiest at medium-high, like the HOOK Solid.
Most rackets weigh between 360 and 370 g. A lighter one moves faster; a heavier one is more stable and hits through the ball, but tires you more over a long session. For most intermediate and advanced players, around 360 g with medium-high balance works best.
5. Finish and spin
A lot of people choose a racket for its 3D or sandy finish. In my opinion it doesn't do much, maybe 5 to 10% extra spin, and the hole pattern has more influence. On top of that, sandy finishes wear off with time, and some 3D finishes are so mild that they barely make a difference. If spin matters to you, Starvie has usually had the most aggressive 3D finish, because it's moulded directly into the surface.
Still not sure?
Tell me your level and how you play. Send me a DM on Instagram @padeldrive or an email to contact@padeldrive.co.uk and I'll reply myself. You can also see every racket I recommend.